Hazardous´s Blog

P90 Tune Up Guide

P90 Tune up Tutorial

On this tutorial I'll go trough the basics of a P90 tune up.
I'll start with the introduction and some in-site of the parts that I'll be putting into my P90.
Later on I will have a guided step by step tutorial on disassemby of the weapon, disassembly of the internal parts and the Ver.6 Gear-Box. Don't worry, I'll show you how to put it back together too.

Here are the pasts that I'll be using.

The P90 is a basic China Made AEG replica, probobly made from some of the first manufacturors like Tokio Marui ot Classic Army P90's

I'v decided to try to make this weapon as silent as possibel, so I'm goig for the following:
–    metal ballbearings
–    helical gears with 2:1 ratio
–    a metal nozzle head with O-ring airseal
–    Element silent piston head.

The 6mm Metal Ballbearings

Ballbearings reduces friction from the gearbox wich gives more effect from the motor, witch in turn reduces the battery consumption and gives a longer battery life before dreinage. Theese reduce the mecanical noise from metal bearsings and in some cases gives a higer ROF on autamatic AEG weapons. The Ver.6 gearbox usually has 6mm bushings but some of the high-end manufacturers use a special oval bushing for the Sector Gear (the one witch operates the piston), to whom you cant get a metall ballbearing. This is why I'v chosen the China Made replica.

The Element Silent Piston Head with ballbearings for the Spring

This is the silent piston head. A silent piston head is prety much self explenatiory. A silent piston head is easyly recogniced by the outbending on in the middle of the pistonhead. The aerodynamics of the head makes it to dampen a bit before it hits the bottom of the cylinder. The ballbearings that you finde in the piston itself eases preasure of the springload and makes sure that the maximum power of the spring is used to prepell the piston forward and not to position the spring inside the piston.

The metallic air nozzle with O-Ring airseal

The airnozzle is the one pice in the gearbox that takes the most damage on each sycle the gun makes. For every shot that is fired the airnozzle is slammed on the pellet and in low end AEG's like my P90 the airnozzle is not as tough as it should be. This is why I have chosen to go with a metallic airnozzle for a long lifetime. As you can see on the 2nd image in the highlited area, the maneufacturers airnozzle has allready began to desintigrate after a rough 5'000 pellets fired. If a user decides to use a metallic airnozzle, remebmer to use high-grade pellets, for there is a bigger risk now that the airnozzle can shatter the pellet in the hop-up chamber. The O-Ring airseal is a nice effect when a user is out for power and accurasey. The O-Ring airseal ensures that the airpreassure is directed to the pellet the same way on each shot.

The Helical Gear with the 2:1 power ratio

Helical Gear are kinde of special. As far as I know, there is not one airsoft manufacturer that uses helical gear as a standard component in theyr AEG's. The difference between helical gear and ordenarey gear is the sideways spacings between each teath on the gears as you can see from the picture. This is good becouse the gears will never brake contact with each oter, when a teath is out of range the nex one is already in place. The helical gear is the ultimate component for people who wishes to reduse the noice from theyr AEG gearboxes. Ver.2, Ver.3 and Ver.6 gearboxes all use the same gears, so tehy can all be tossed around as you see fit. I have chosen the 2:1 ratio (the motor does two cyles while the spring does one) to take out even more stress from the motor, and thous more extending the battery life. This reduses the ROF of the AEG by a half, wich in turn saves me pellets. The helical gears makes almost no mechanical noice what so ever witch makes them really easy to shimm.

So, lets start by taking apart the P90 replica. Remove the magazine by pulling the magazine guard highlited on the picture. Remembet to pull on bought sides simultaniously. The magazine will pop up from the rear, wich allows you to lift it out by pullin it towards the rear.

Now under the magazine the release switch fro the front guard and the site rial is wisible. Press it down and pull the site rail towards the front of the gun. Now you should have the front site rail and the Hop-Up unit complete with the inner and outer barrel separate from the gun.

To open the shoulder padd on a P90 you'l finde a button on the underside of the AEG. The trick is to press the button and while the button is in, you need to pull the shoulder padd downwards. This should take the shoulder padd off its rails an you'll be able to take out or put in your battey.

Now, to expose the gearbox we need to take out the shielding plate. The shielding plete is located in the back of the AEG in the battery compartment. There are two philips head screws that holds the plate on place. Unscrew theese and the lower end of the shieldingplate can be lifted up like on the picture in the left corner. After this, tread the fuse box and the cables trough the cable hole and lift out the shielding plate trough the holes in the shoulder padd rails.

Now to remove the gearbox itself, wich is wisible in the back end of the AEG, grab the motor and pull the gearbox out by simply lideing it out from the back of the butstock.

Now, while working on a gearbox, a Ver.2, Ver.3 or a Ver.6 like this one, we want the gearbox pointing to the left like in the picture. This is simply the most comfortable way to work on a gearbox.

Nex we want to remove the whires from the motor, dessconnect the cables from the back end of the motor and tread them trough the whirehole between the motor and the back end of the gearbox.

Now we are going to remove the triggerbox. The triggerbox is fastened with three philips head screws. Unscrew theese and remove the compleatly from the triggerbox. Remeber that all three screws are of different lenght, so place them so that you remeber witch one goes where. While removing the triggerbox, use extra care, the plastic tiggerbox didn't feel that strong and felt that it could easely brake.

Now to remove the motor with its casing, there are two philips head screws holding the casing on its place, remove theese and the motor slides out nicely in a downwards angle.

Now once the motor is removed, remeber to check for damage. The Pinion Gear that sits on the top of the motor, The Bevel Gear that is visible in the bottom of the gearbox now once you have removed the motor casing. Remeber also to look at the screw in the bottom of the motor, this is the screw that adjusts the depth of the motor, see that is't not tampered with.

Now, to crack open the gearbox itself. The only two things that are holing together the gearbox at this moment is the philips head screw on the top right corner of the gearbox and the top support plate.

The most inportant thing that you want to remeber in this case is to constantly keeping preassure on the gearbox.

Now, while holding the gearbox between your fingers and the working table, remove the philips head screw, remeber to notice the lock disk beneath the screw.

Remeber allways to keep a little preasure on the gearbox, the spring has a nice force if you let it go and can easly damage the gearbox and its parts.
Next remove the top support plate by sliding it to the back of the gearbox, this usually need a little push from a chisel screwdriver.

Now the the support plate is free from the gearbox shift your fingers on to the cylinder and crank open the gearbox from the frot, a good place to get a grip from is just beside the nozzle head.

Once the top of the gearbox is removed, push down the spring and lit out the spring guide and let the spring rest on the gearbox.

Now all tention is removed from the gearbox and you can start breathing agen.

Next, let’s start to disassemble the gearbox. First step is to remove the spring with the piston and remember to see that all the teeth in the piston are intact and without wear and tear.
Now, let us lift up the Bevel Gear so that we can remove the tension form the Anti-Reversal Latch (ARL). It’s good to keep the ARL well greased, it helps to keep it in place when we are re- assembling the gearbox.

After this it’s a good time to take a brake, it’s a good trick to keep your nerves in check.

I'll get back to you in time, this takes a time to write ;)
-Mike out!

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